Clematis is a beloved garden vine, known for its stunning flowers and ability to climb trellises, fences, and walls with ease.
It’s a plant that can bring color and elegance to your garden throughout much of the growing season.
But when winter approaches, the question arises: how do you help your clematis survive the cold months?
Overwintering clematis can seem tricky, especially if you’re not sure what variety you have or what steps to take.
I’ve been growing clematis for years, and I’ve learned a lot from both my successes and failures.
With the right care and preparation, your clematis can survive even harsh winters and come back strong the next year.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about how to overwinter clematis, so you can keep your vines thriving year after year.
Know Your Clematis Group
Before you can successfully overwinter clematis, you need to know which group your clematis belongs to.
Clematis are generally divided into three pruning groups, and understanding this is essential because each group has different needs when it comes to overwintering and pruning.
I learned this the hard way when I pruned my clematis the wrong way one fall, and it barely bloomed the following year.
Knowing your clematis group will help you avoid this mistake.
Group 1 clematis bloom on old wood, meaning they produce flowers on growth from the previous season.
These varieties, like Clematis montana and Clematis alpina, typically bloom in the early spring.
For Group 1 clematis, it’s best not to prune in the fall, as you risk cutting off the flower buds for the next season.
Group 2 clematis bloom on both old and new wood, giving you a longer bloom time.
These clematis, like Clematis Nelly Moser or Clematis Henryi, usually bloom in late spring and again in late summer.
Prune these lightly in the fall to remove dead or weak growth but avoid heavy pruning.
Group 3 clematis bloom on new wood, meaning they produce flowers on growth from the current season.
This group includes varieties like Clematis Jackmanii and Clematis viticella.
For Group 3 clematis, you can prune them back hard in late fall or early winter because they will bloom on new growth the following year.
Knowing which group your clematis belongs to is the first step in ensuring it overwinters successfully.
If you’re not sure, try to identify your clematis before doing any pruning or winter preparations.
Prune Clematis According to Its Group
Pruning is an essential part of clematis care, especially when preparing the plant for winter.
As I mentioned earlier, the way you prune depends on which group your clematis belongs to.
For Group 1 clematis, you shouldn’t prune in the fall at all.
Since these varieties bloom on old wood, any pruning you do in the fall could remove next year’s flower buds.
Instead, wait until right after they bloom in the spring to prune them back, which will give them plenty of time to set new buds for the following season.
For Group 2 clematis, a light fall pruning is ideal.
I usually go through and remove any dead or weak growth, but I avoid cutting back too much.
These varieties will bloom on both old and new wood, so you don’t want to cut away too much of the older growth.
Just tidy them up and leave the main framework intact for next season.
For Group 3 clematis, fall or early winter is the perfect time for a hard prune.
I prune these back to about 12-18 inches from the ground, which allows them to put all their energy into producing fresh growth in the spring.
I used to be hesitant about cutting my clematis back this much, but trust me, they come back stronger every year.
Mulch to Protect the Roots
One of the most important steps in overwintering clematis is protecting its roots, and the best way to do that is by applying a thick layer of mulch in the fall.
Mulch acts as an insulating blanket, keeping the soil temperature more stable during the freeze-thaw cycles of winter.
I’ve been mulching my clematis for years, and I’ve seen firsthand how much it helps protect the plant.
I usually apply 2-4 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded leaves, straw, or pine needles, around the base of the plant.
Be sure to spread the mulch evenly around the root zone, but don’t pile it directly against the stems, as this can lead to rot.
If you live in a colder climate, adding a thicker layer of mulch can be helpful, especially if the winter is expected to be harsh.
The mulch will insulate the roots, keeping them from freezing and reducing the risk of frost heaving, where the ground expands and contracts, potentially damaging the plant.
Watering Clematis Before Winter
Even though clematis is relatively drought-tolerant, giving it enough water in the fall is important to help it survive the winter.
I always make sure to give my clematis a deep watering in late October or early November, right before the ground starts to freeze.
This helps the plant go into winter with enough moisture in its root system to prevent dehydration.
Once the ground freezes, clematis can no longer take up water, so getting that last deep watering in before winter hits is crucial.
However, be careful not to overwater, as waterlogged soil can lead to root rot, especially during the colder months.
I usually let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings in the fall to ensure the roots don’t sit in soggy soil.
Provide Wind Protection
If your clematis is planted in a spot that’s exposed to strong winter winds, consider providing some wind protection.
Cold, drying winds can damage the stems and leaves of clematis, especially in areas where winters are harsh.
A few years ago, I lost one of my clematis plants to winter winds, even though I’d done everything else right.
Since then, I’ve made it a point to protect my clematis from wind.
You can use burlap, landscape fabric, or even a temporary fence to shield the plant from wind.
Be sure to anchor the covering securely, but leave enough room for air circulation.
The idea is to protect the plant from the worst of the wind without suffocating it.
Wind protection is especially important for clematis that are in more exposed areas, like open garden beds or along fences that get a lot of wind.
Overwintering Potted Clematis Indoors
If you’re growing clematis in a pot, overwintering it can be a bit more challenging, but it’s definitely doable.
Potted clematis is more vulnerable to freezing temperatures because its roots are more exposed to the cold.
I’ve overwintered potted clematis for years, and the key is to move the pot to a protected area before the first hard frost hits.
I usually bring my potted clematis into an unheated garage, basement, or shed.
The goal is to keep it in a cool but not freezing environment.
Temperatures between 40°F and 50°F are ideal.
Once the plant is inside, I cut back on watering significantly.
Clematis in dormancy doesn’t need much water, so I only water it lightly every 4-6 weeks, just enough to keep the roots from completely drying out.
When spring arrives and the temperatures start to warm up, I gradually move the plant back outside and resume normal watering and feeding.
Protecting Clematis from Frost Heaving
In colder climates, frost heaving can be a real problem for clematis during the winter.
Frost heaving occurs when the soil repeatedly freezes and thaws, causing the ground to expand and contract.
This movement can push the plant’s roots out of the ground, exposing them to freezing temperatures.
I’ve had this happen to one of my clematis plants, and it nearly killed the plant.
To prevent frost heaving, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plant in late fall.
You can also add a protective layer of straw or evergreen boughs on top of the mulch to provide extra insulation.
Additionally, avoid disturbing the soil around the base of the plant during the fall and winter, as this can exacerbate frost heaving.
By protecting the roots with mulch and avoiding soil disturbance, you can greatly reduce the risk of frost heaving.
Spring Wake-Up: When to Remove Winter Protection
As winter begins to give way to spring, it’s time to start thinking about waking your clematis up from its winter dormancy.
However, it’s important not to remove the winter protection too early, especially if you live in an area with late frosts.
I usually wait until the daytime temperatures are consistently above freezing and the risk of hard frost has passed before removing the mulch and any other protective coverings.
In early spring, I gently remove the mulch from around the base of the plant and give the clematis a light watering to help it wake up.
If you’ve covered your clematis with burlap or frost cloth, take it off during the day to allow sunlight and air to reach the plant.
Be patient—clematis can take a little time to start showing signs of new growth, especially after a long winter.
Fertilizing Clematis in the Spring
Once your clematis begins to show signs of new growth in the spring, it’s a good time to give it a light feeding to help it recover from the winter.
I usually apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring, just as the new shoots are starting to emerge.
Be careful not to over-fertilize, as too much nitrogen can lead to lush green growth but fewer flowers.
A light application in the spring will give your clematis the nutrients it needs to grow strong and produce plenty of blooms.
Final Thoughts
Overwintering clematis can seem daunting, especially if you’re not sure where to start.
But with the right care, it’s absolutely manageable.
By knowing your clematis group, pruning appropriately, protecting the roots with mulch, and providing wind protection, you can help your clematis survive even the coldest winters.
If you’re growing clematis in pots, bringing them indoors and adjusting your care routine is key to keeping them alive through the winter.
With a little preparation in the fall and some patience in the spring, your clematis will reward you with stunning blooms for many years to come.
Happy gardening!